When I first moved to the Netherlands and discovered how hard (and, therefore, drying to my skin) the water was, I was told by a local hairstylist that many Dutch women skip the tap altogether and cleanse their faces only using micellar water. As evidence of her claim, I soon noticed that even small drugstores in the Netherlands often devote entire sections to bottles of micellar water, along with packs of cotton rounds.
Having spent most of my adult life (so far) in Japan, where regular washing is a must and daily baths are the norm, the idea of wiping off the day’s dirt using nothing more than micellar water intrigued me — and also made me question whether you can really replace regular cleanser with the stuff.
First, what is micellar water?
Skipping full face washing fits the stereotypical Dutch preference for less makeup and an overall easy, natural beauty routine. But micellar water didn’t actually originate in the Netherlands — it was invented in France. And if you take note, you’ll realize that many micellar water OGs are created by French brands.
Micellar water, as its name suggests, is water, but unlike what flows out of your faucet, it contains surfactants that offer cleansing properties. These surfactants create micelles, a fancy word for particles that pull dirt and other gunk off the surface of your skin. To use micellar water, all you have to do is apply the liquid to a cotton pad and wipe it across your face.
The cleansing product was invented in France in the early 1900s, likely because the country’s water, at the time, was too harsh and dirty to use on the skin. Though it’s not clear exactly who created the first micelle-rich water, its origins have always been distinctly French — years later, micellar water became a staple at French pharmacies, and makeup artists in Paris started toting bottles of the stuff to fashion shows.1 As word caught on, brands like Bioderma started exporting to other countries, and the rest is history.
The benefits and drawbacks of micellar water
Just like how saunas can help or hurt your skin, micellar water can have mixed effects on your complexion, especially when used in place of traditional soap and water. First, micellar water might be less stripping than cleanser. And if, like in the Netherlands and some other European countries, your tap water is on the hard side, and it’s causing dull, dry skin, micellar water could be a gentler alternative. On top of that, many micellar waters on the market contain moisturizing ingredients (such as glycerin), further helping to banish dryness.
On the other hand, micellar water might not wash away dirt, oil, and makeup as effectively as soap and water, unless you swipe your face several times using multiple cotton rounds (which, for what it’s worth, also isn’t great for the environment, unless you have reusable pads on hand). It’s also hard to guarantee that all the debris is actually lifted and removed from the skin when not washing with regular water. Because of this, micellar water can cause acne and irritation.
So, can you replace your cleanser with micellar water?
Some people might get away with only using micellar water to cleanse. But if you’re prone to acne, wear heavy makeup, have oily skin, or experience skin irritation, micellar water might not be a hack for washing your face.
That said, the French product can still play an important role in your skincare routine. For example, if you’re worried your tap water and cleanser are too harsh, consider using micellar water in the morning — but still use soap and water in the evening, when there’s likely to be more grime on your face. If you’re looking for a deep cleanse, you can also use micellar water in a double-cleansing routine, wiping some across your face first before following up with a regular cleanser.
You can also borrow the Dutch and French preference for gentle skincare. Nix any abrasive products from your skincare lineup and try kinder alternatives (such as replacing retinol with ginseng). And embrace a less-is-more approach: Instead of piling on multiple products every day, scale it back to just a few essentials.
- https://www.vogue.com/article/best-micellar-water ↩︎
