Let’s face it: Aging is inevitable — or at least we should all hope so. A few wrinkles and lines are a sign of a life well-lived, something we should all aspire to have. With that said, there’s no harm in trying to preserve your skin for as long as possible by using SPF on the daily, drinking water, and slathering on collagen-boosting skincare products.
In Western beauty, retinol dominates the anti-aging market, and it’s touted as one of the most — if not the most — effective ways to keep your skin barrier plump and youthful. These days, even young people with no visible smile lines or crow’s feet are already jumping on the retinol bandwagon to get a head start on anti-aging. But in the East, skincare routines look a little different. In South Korea and its neighboring countries, including China and Japan, ginseng reigns supreme.
It’s not that retinol is unheard of in K-beauty or that you’d never spot it in a Japanese drugstore. Rather, it’s simply not a staple the way it is in the U.S. and other Western countries, particularly among consumers under the age of 40. In its place, a humble, carrot-like root vegetable is the go-to for keeping skin looking firm and fresh.
Ginseng benefits for skin
According to traditional Eastern and Chinese medicine, ginseng is a remedy for all kinds of ailments, from low immunity to digestive issues. But besides being thought of as a miracle herb for your insides, it’s also known to give your outsides a boost too. Ginseng has been used in Korean skincare since at least the 1500s when Joseon-era beauty Hwang Jini was said to have bathed in ginseng water. Fast forward to the 1960s when K-beauty company Sulwhasoo began researching the use of ginseng in topical products, which the brand is still known for today.
So what skin benefits can you expect to see by adding ginseng to your bathroom line-up? Just like with retinol, the root vegetable has been proven to have anti-aging properties. Multiple studies, including one 2010 study, have shown that red ginseng can reduce facial wrinkles by increasing collagen production. Similarly, a 2020 study found that red ginseng was associated with greater skin elasticity. There’s also evidence that ginseng can lighten the skin, per a 2021 study, which may be desirable for those with hyperpigmentation and other skin conditions. Additionally, ginseng is packed with antioxidants1 and is said to have a warming effect2, which may improve the look and feel of dull skin.
Note that there are different types of ginseng, including some that aren’t actually the real deal. For instance, ashwagandha is sometimes referred to as “Indian ginseng,” even though it comes from an entirely different plant. When scanning skincare labels, Korean red ginseng is generally your best bet.
Why ginseng could be better than retinol
For many, retinol and other actives in the retinoid family are the gold standard when it comes to graceful aging. However, these ingredients don’t play nice with all skin types. Retinol isn’t ideal for those with sensitive skin and may cause irritation, even among those with relatively resilient skin. You may notice dryness, redness, itching, burning, peeling, and sun sensitivity3. These symptoms can be aggravated when retinoids are combined with other actives, which may require giving up your holy grail serum, for instance, to minimize discomfort.
Ginseng, on the other hand, isn’t an ingredient typically associated with irritation the way retinol is. That doesn’t mean the ingredient will work for everyone (it’s always a good idea to proceed with caution and do a patch test when trying new formulas!), but those with sensitive skin generally tolerate it well compared to retinoids. There’s also less risk involved when mixing ginseng with other actives and potent ingredients.
How to use ginseng for your skin
Ginseng can be found in a range of skincare products, from masks to moisturizers. For the best results — and to reap maximum anti-aging benefits — consider starting with one product that stays on the skin for a longer amount of time. In other words, skip the masks at first and start with a ginseng-rich serum, toner, or moisturizer. Not all products that claim to contain ginseng offer a high-quality formulation, so when in doubt, do your research. To get started, try one of these K-beauty picks that have won over skincare junkies:
Sulwhasoo Concentrated Ginseng Renewing Cream
From the ginseng OGs, this cream boasts powerful concentrated ginseng saponins and peptides, practically turning back the clock on your skin. In fact, it’s been clinically proven to reduce the look of wrinkles and lines in just four weeks. This little jar is a high-priced luxury item, but your skin will thank you later.
Sulwhasoo First Care Activating Serum VI
If you’re looking for a Sulwhasoo formula at a more affordable price, this serum has you covered. Swipe it on your skin after cleansing for a dose of hydration and improved elasticity. Just like the renewing cream, this ginseng-packed product is backed by research and has been shown to reduce signs of aging within only four weeks.
I’m From Ginseng Serum
You can’t go wrong when ginseng is literally in the name. This wallet-friendly K-beauty serum stars aged red ginseng from Geumsan, Korea, and includes soothing green tea to boot. Add a few drops to your skin after cleansing and applying toner to improve hydration, firmness, and uneven skin tone.
Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Essence Water
BOJ has become a cult favorite among K-beauty enthusiasts, and its Ginseng Essence Water is a best seller. The formula contains a whopping 80% ginseng root water, plus niacinamide to keep oil in check. It’s moisturizing without being heavy and offers anti-aging properties without angering sensitive skin. And, best of all, it won’t break the bank.
Beauty of Joseon Revive Eye Serum
If you’re looking to target fine lines, puffiness, or sun spots around the eyes, this eye serum is a winner. It features anti-aging ginseng, as well as retinal — yes, the gentler sister of retinol — for double effectiveness. You might love this eye product so much that you’ll start slathering it all over your face.
Donginbi Daily Defense Essence EX
Donginbi might not be the first to add ginseng to its products, but the brand has become a pro at doing so. It holds seven red ginseng oil patents, and one product where you’ll see the ingredient shine is Donginbi’s Daily Defense Essence EX. The first ingredient in the item’s list: panax ginseng root water. The essence is also boosted with ginseng extracts and oils for maximum skin nourishment.
What about eating your ginseng?
In Eastern medicine, ginseng is traditionally something you consume — not wear on your face. It can be found in tea, concentrated supplements, and other edible forms, though it’s unclear how effective ingesting ginseng is for your skin. There is evidence that ginseng can boost circulation, as was found in one 2013 study. This could, in theory, help with skin repair and resilience. Good circulation could also mean your skin receives more nutrients, possibly triggering a glowy effect.
However, if healthy skin is what you’re after, you might just be better off using specially formulated skincare products, given the risks associated with ginseng. Some experts don’t recommend consuming ginseng for more than three months at a time, making it hard to reap consistent benefits. Plus, certain people, including those with high blood pressure, diabetes, bipolar disorder, and some autoimmune diseases, should steer clear of ginseng teas and supplements for medical reasons4. Like with any supplement or powerful ingredient, you should consult your doctor before adding the Asian herb to your routine.